No ‘best of’ list is definitive, because no lovingly prepared meal can (or should) be reduced to mere bullet points. By the same token, certain creations and their chefs could stand to receive shoutouts, especially in Shanghai’s hyper competitive dining and wining scene.
Good eats abound in this city we choose to call home, that’s a given, but only some are capable of making us pause mid-sentence, reflect on a chef's intentions, and fully take stock of the present. When you have tasted such a dish, you might still be thinking about it while making eye contact with the waiter and gesturing to ‘mai dan.’ The memory of it might even sneak up on you the next morning, as you burn your toast for the third time that week. More than feed your physical body, it nourished your soul and/or provided mental fodder.
Behold, a list of 10 dishes — plus some honourable mentions — that found favour with Time Out Shanghai for different reasons. We hope you enjoy them as much as we did.
01
Photo by Sammi Sowerby
On paper, it reads as ‘Cauliflower Mushroom.’ In your mouth, it gets a tad confusing. The brain registers all the familiar components of a well-executed carbonara (egg yolks, cured pork), yet something definitely other than pasta slips and slides around your tongue and beneath your teeth.
The culprit, a species of fungus scientifically known as sparassis and colloquially called cauliflower mushroom, is more commonly served in sweet soups in China, but works as a wonderful conveyor of lip-smacking sauces.
Says Japanese-Singaporean head chef Jun Nishiyama: “Initially, we found (the fungus) had little to no flavour, but thought it had a good texture, so we threw it in a pan with garlic, chillies and parsley — almost like an aglio e olio,” That in itself was “pretty good,” but the team continued to push the envelope, and we’re glad they did, for the final Carbonara-esque dish almost lifted me out of my seat.
English Editor,
Time Out Shanghai
02
Pumpkin Liquid Cheesecake
Photo by Eugenia Mok
“After the gluttony that went hand-in-hand with the Thanksgiving-Christmas-New Year’s trifecta, some of us might turn green at the mere idea of facing yet another pumpkin dessert. Except this isn’t just any pumpkin dessert.
Part of Bastard’s latest offerings, Chef Michael Janczewski’s Pumpkin Liquid Cheesecake sounds like a Heston Blumenthal creation, looks like convalescent food, and tastes like the illicit lovechild of mapo tofu and cheesecake. Laced with soy and a Sichuan pepper reduction, the savoury sweet is finished with a heady dusting of spices, which co-founder Jiro calls ‘our take on pumpkin spice.’
This is a dessert that seriously challenges conventional etiquette, so great is the temptation to abandon all cutlery and lick the shallow bowl clean.”
Photos by Eugenia Mok
TIME OUT TIP: More new winter dishes at Bastard include a calamari dish (yuzu makes the whole dish sing) and a whole steamed fish (on our day of visit, it had a amusingly red nose redolent of Rudolf).
English Editor,
Time Out Shanghai
03
Photo courtesy of High Yaki The Sea
“It’s hard to find something here that’s not worth raving about at High Yaki The Sea, which primarily serves up Japanese-inspired seafood dishes. However, if I had to pick, the spotlight surely belongs to the Snow Crab Fried Rice.
Snow crabs are delivered to the restaurant daily and slow-cooked before being finished with charcoal and smoked applewood. The crab is served atop Japanese rice, and makes for a creamy, crunchy and smoky dish bursting with flavor and umami.”
Writer and 'Fun Curator,'
Time Out Shanghai
04
📍 Charbon by Paul Pairet
Photo courtesy of Charbon by Paul Pairet
“For lovers of all things skewer-based, Paul Pairet’s Charbon is a must visit. Countless cuts of meats, seafood and veggies are meticulously cooked to perfection on a yakitori style grill. My personal favourite is the octopus skewer, which is tender while harbouring a host of complex flavours.
Photo courtesy of Charbon by Paul Pairet
Cool down with a generous selection of ice cream-based concoctions after.”
Writer and 'Fun Curator,'
Time Out Shanghai
05
📍 Pasha Turkish Restaurant
Photo by Khalil Alsalman via Lebanese Recipes
“The best dish I got served this year would have to be the künefe (also known as knafeh, kunafa, kunafeh, kanafeh or knafeh) at Pasha Turkish Restaurant. It’s a delicate dessert made with creamy cheese and oven-roasted and shredded angel’s hair that’s soaked in a rose-flavoured syrup and topped with crushed pistachios.”
Contributor and proud dog mum,
Time Out Shanghai
06
Black Truffle & Mushroom Pizza
Photo via Il Teatro Dianping
“Another absolutely unforgettable dish for me in 2023 would have to be the signature Black Truffle & Mushroom Pizza at Il Teatro, Xintiandi.
Doused in truffle oil and topped with black truffles and mushrooms, it originally comes with an egg yolk on top. However, my husband and I love it sans the egg; so much so that we've been repeatedly since our first try. The base of the pizza is just *chef’s kiss.* Airy and crisp around the corners and chewy in the centre. Perfection. The cheese is just the right amount of melty and the truffle hits the right notes without being overpowering. 10/10 would recommend!”
Contributor and proud dog mum,
Time Out Shanghai
07
Photo by Coquina Restrepo
“A few months ago, I confucted a deep dive into Shanghai's doughnut culture and found some of the most beautiful deep-fried goods I'd ever laid eyes on. All of my favourites came from one place: Sloppy Gin.
The owner, a former barista in Beijing, learned baking in his spare time and, together with his head baker Alice, have been creating designer doughnuts in Shanghai since January 1, 2023.
My favourite is their sell-out piece: the Birthday Cake Donut. To me, it tastes like a roller rink birthday party in the 1980’s. The double-fermented dough is perfectly sweet in itself, but then they add a slightly tangy layer of strawberry icing and dip the whole thing in their house glaze, which smells a little like lemons. As an American, it’s a bite of nostalgia, and I can tell you this much: Sloppy Gin has the best damn doughnuts in Shanghai.”
Contributor and resident runner,
Time Out Shanghai
08
Photo by Coquina Restrepo
“I’m a runner and one of my running groups is a half exercise, half foodie hub. Someone in the group tipped me off to the best mushroom gnocchi in the city, and it is absolutely amazing! The rich, creamy cheese is complimented by the subtle, earthy flavour of the mushrooms. I wanted to hold each spoonful in my mouth for as long as possible, all the better to enjoy the way all of the flavours melded.
While I am a picky spritz drinker, I will say that their Jianguo Favourite Spritz pairs nicely with Sunday brunch.”
Contributor and resident runner,
Time Out Shanghai
09
Photo by Eugenia Mok
“It’s been a good year for ‘breadheads’ such as myself, thanks to many new bakery openings in town. In my quest to find the best pastries across Shanghai, I discovered that BAsdBAN's croissant reigns supreme.
The bakery is known for its creative, elaborate, and picture-ready creations, but the true standout is the team’s winning viennoiserie recipe, making the plain croissant the ultimate paragon of carby craftmanship. Boasting a tall, delicately crisp golden shell, the croissant’s interior, although airy, is packed with layers of the indulgent, buttery goodness we’ve come to expect and love from a croissant. It’s no wonder BAsdBAN has garnered so much attention.”
Contributor and avid café hopper,
Time Out Shanghai
10
Photo by Eugenia Mok
“I’ve had my share of Michelin-eats and bites of the hottest plates in Shanghai, but there’s just something incomparably comforting about a humble bowl of noodles from the local corner shop. In fact, this bowl is one of my most memorable eats of 2023.
Many may know them as a popular neighbourhood spot for xiaolongbao, but in my eyes, the scallion noodles are a standout at Fumai Baozi (上海富麦包子). The springy noodle soaks up the mixture of aromatic scallion oil and soy sauce, and the dish is finished with a generous heaping of fried scallions and salty, umami dried shrimp. It’s quintessentially Shanghainese, flavour-packed and, most importantly, delicious.”
Contributor and avid café hopper,
Time Out Shanghai