With spotlights pointed at a mock
copper tiled ceiling overhead,
walking into The Cannery feels a
bit like entering a giant bar of gold.
But while it may seem a little
tuhao on the face of it,
this new Yuyuan Lu
spot from the people
behind perenially
popular Rockbund
hang out The Nest
actually serves up a
laidback elegance,
with its stylish
interior paired with
casual, filling dishes
and excellent drinks.
Food-wise, the menu
is concise but well executed.
There’s a range of freshly flown-in
seafood at market prices which
changes daily, with staff behind
the central bar area steaming
mussels and shucking oysters, so
make sure you enquire about the
specials. From the regular options,
appetisers include tasty slices of
grilled octopus (78RMB) coated in a
zesty preserved lemon dressing and
topped with a sprinkle of watercress
– a perfect summer starter – and a
‘cannery’ of rich duck liver mousse
served with butter soaked toast
that’s a steal at 48RMB.
There’s also a large smoked
yellowfish tuna jaw (98RMB), which with its small side of crispy
potatoes could easily pass as a
main. The spicy glaze and garnish
of daikon and horseradish pick up
a fruity twang from the addition of
lemon and are excellent, though
the meat inside is relatively bland.
Better (from the mains proper) is
the simply presented but superbly
judged grilled lobster (198-298RMB), which features a
wonderfully smokey edge
from the charcoal grill
and comes with a
decadent smoked
sriracha butter.
To wash it all
down, there’s a
good range of craft
beers, with Baird’s
Wabi Sabi and
Brewdog’s Vagabond
Session Ale among
the rotating offerings on
tap (all 48RMB) on one visit,
plus wines by the glass starting
from 58RMB. But it’s the creative
signature cocktails that are the
stars of the show, with the bar staff
freed from the Bacardi shackles of
The Nest.
Aside from the Pecorino Negroni
(88RMB), where the strong nose
of cheese becomes too much after
a few sips, every Cannery cocktail
we’ve tried has been outstanding.
The Hopped Pina Nueva, with
Grunion Pale Ale adding lightly
hoppy notes to a ‘secret pina colada
mix’ and coconut rum (88RMB),
the Peanut Butter Old Fashioned
with its gently PB-infused bourbon,
chocolate bitters and salted caramel
(78RMB) and the surprisingly easy
going Cold Fashioned of bourbon,
cold drip coffee and maple syrup
(88RMB) are all masterful.
In short, The Nest team have
another winner. Get there now.
By Jake Newby
